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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    New Boston, NH

    Tuckermans 11.17.13

    Climbed tux on Sunday with Corey Swartz. Great day in the blowing fog/mist/rain. Super warm (45 degrees F). Chatted with Beth the new winter caretaker at HoJo's and then headed up into the ravine...

    Got up to the headwall and decided to go straight up. "The Book", to the right, was pouring water. We solo'd the first 1/2 pitch and roped up for the next two. Lots of undermining and more like late spring climbing. 75' from the top and a bus sized chunk fell off above the hiking trail to our right and came careening down. Anyone in the 45' blast area would have been seriously hurt if not dead. The main piece was planted in the middle of the decent trail and the rest caused a small debris slide which also was larger enough to wipe out a party. Of course not being able to see the action happen, we could only hear it due to the fog. The sound was incredible and bone shaking scary. We convened at the last belay ledge and decided to get the H out of there. Fastest escape end up being up. I ran the last pitch like a man on fire, belayed from above and we started our walk off. The whole walk off down the Ravine trail consisted of looking up and to our right to avoid being caught in another ice-born WMD. By the time we left Hermit Lake, the wind really picked up and it started raining for real. back to the car alive and with a beer in the gear room. Yay life.

    In early season and with drastic weather changes, be safe out there people. Make good smart choices. Bailing off a route to climb another day is admirable, not whimpy. Enjoy the ice!

    "Be well, do good work and keep in touch."

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  2. #2
    Friday 11/22. Climbed the left ice flow high up left of left gully with DG yesterday. The separate flow to the right looked fun but thinner. Broke the climb up into two pitches but could be done as one. The first being fat with great ice. took up to 19's. The second being short but steeper - stayed left. Found fat blue hero ice. Walked off and down into left gully. Great day. Sorry not camera weather. Mission accomplished - good times, good ice and sore legs after two days on Mt Washington.

  3. #3
    New Member JGassel's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Boston, MA
    Update: Saturday 11/23

    Hiked in to check out conditions and ended up at the Open Book pitch, which looked like the fattest from a distance. Up close, things didn't look that good imo. There was lots of water running down behind a small amount of ice that was formed on it.

    Due to those ice conditions + terribly cold weather and high wind we decided to bail and come back another day. I've led the pitch before but wasn't willing to commit to it that day.

    See attached picture.

    Click image for larger version. 

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