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  1. #11
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    Apr 2006
    Location
    concord nh
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    2,247
    It's great to see some still getting out. It is still very winter-like on the higher summits. If these ice conditions were present in say November people would be loving it. I've never understood why some are oh so very quick to declare the season over. The days are long, there is a great smell in the air and there is good ice.

    On Sat.7th. As a part of the Presidential Traverse, ( S to N ) I down climbed a perfect Diagonal then went up Yale. I did not do the lower slab and I would bet it was quite undermined. However the rest of the route was a blast. There were thin spots, but the moss was excellent when needed. All in all... moving thru that place, this huge crease in the headwall of a cirque, in those conditions was beautiful.

    Time is short. One thing that is different in the spring rather than fall is the sun. Good on you guys for jumping on it! Here are a few shots from Saturday.

    Name:  pinnacle.jpg
Views: 65
Size:  98.6 KB

    Name:  AP.jpg
Views: 43
Size:  96.7 KB
    I'm on the lamb, but I ain't no sheep

  2. #12
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Seacoast, NH
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    57
    Quote Originally Posted by Alfonzo View Post
    It's great to see some still getting out. It is still very winter-like on the higher summits. If these ice conditions were present in say November people would be loving it. I've never understood why some are oh so very quick to declare the season over. The days are long, there is a great smell in the air and there is good ice.

    On Sat.7th. As a part of the Presidential Traverse, ( S to N ) I down climbed a perfect Diagonal then went up Yale. I did not do the lower slab and I would bet it was quite undermined. However the rest of the route was a blast. There were thin spots, but the moss was excellent when needed. All in all... moving thru that place, this huge crease in the headwall of a cirque, in those conditions was beautiful.

    Time is short. One thing that is different in the spring rather than fall is the sun. Good on you guys for jumping on it! Here are a few shots from Saturday.

    Name:  pinnacle.jpg
Views: 65
Size:  98.6 KB

    Name:  AP.jpg
Views: 43
Size:  96.7 KB
    Alfonzo, amazing day wasn't it? I agree with your thoughts but love the fact that folks hang up the tools early! So beautiful up there and peaceful!
    BTW, amazing effort dude. Don't know too many other people that do a lap down Diagonal and up Yale in the middle of a one day assault on the Prezies. Truly inspiring and simply amazing fitness. Especially headed north into that wind yesterday. Wow.
    As always, thank you for the photos that you post - you should get them published if you are not already. Talent. Would love to catch up some day. See you in the ravine this spring.
    Got any more pics of Diagonal from yesterday? Looks like it is still good for a ski. Especially with more on the way this week.

  3. #13
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Seacoast, NH
    Posts
    57
    Quote Originally Posted by CFitzgerald View Post
    Climbed it Friday with JLeahy1223.. Pinnacle was great! Soft on the 3rd pitch but, overall in very decent shape. lynchdogger.. we did see you throughout the day! Nice solo!
    Thanks but no speed records were broken. Old and slow and feeling it - especially today. Thanks to the party of two that went before me - fast and clean. Again what a great day.

    Have fun all.

  4. #14
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    Apr 2006
    Location
    concord nh
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    2,247
    Lynchdogger,

    Thank you. I love my solitude but do not mind seeing people out. It very rarely effects my plan or day, and if it does it just means I screwed something up. After all, we love the same thing... I'm to them as they are to me. But I do understand your words man.

    Diagonal was still quite good. But as usual, it's all a changed beast. I just read that over the past few days the summit has received 16" of snow. The change of snow consistency, and depth I experienced on Saturday, that existed on the southern and the northern peaks was dramatic.

    Here is how Diagonal looked on 4/7

    Name:  diagonal.jpg
Views: 44
Size:  93.3 KB

    Enjoy the return of winter.
    ~ac
    I'm on the lamb, but I ain't no sheep

  5. #15
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Seacoast, NH
    Posts
    57

    Thanks!

    TT
    Quote Originally Posted by Alfonzo View Post
    Lynchdogger,

    Thank you. I love my solitude but do not mind seeing people out. It very rarely effects my plan or day, and if it does it just means I screwed something up. After all, we love the same thing... I'm to them as they are to me. But I do understand your words man.

    Diagonal was still quite good. But as usual, it's all a changed beast. I just read that over the past few days the summit has received 16" of snow. The change of snow consistency, and depth I experienced on Saturday, that existed on the southern and the northern peaks was dramatic.

    Here is how Diagonal looked on 4/7

    Name:  diagonal.jpg
Views: 44
Size:  93.3 KB

    Enjoy the return of winter.
    ~ac
    Thanks ac! I really appreciate the photo. The photo and your description let me know that the base was in great shape before and we just got what I was hoping for (16+ inches and more to follow today and maybe next couple days). Weather window is next. Just waiting. Thanks. Enjoy.

    -Mark

  6. #16
    New Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    1
    Pinnacle was in great shape this past friday (4/13). Had to break trail through 20+ inches of snow from the base of the fan to the start of the climb. Ice was fat and plastic on the first pitch. P2/3 had lots of deep snow, that surprisingly stayed in place! i suspect after this weekend of warm weather, things may not be as nice.

  7. #17
    Poser
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    Apr 2006
    Location
    concord nh
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    Myself and two compadres did Pinnacle Saturday and it was wonderful. Thanks to the couple of nice guys that us go first! I'm sure you all had a blast on the ridge after.

    Here's view up P1.
    Name:  1pinnacle.jpg
Views: 40
Size:  88.5 KB
    I'm on the lamb, but I ain't no sheep

  8. #18
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    VT
    Posts
    97
    Anytime. The gully was great and the ridge was super fun...albeit snowy, slow going and not very easy (for us!).

  9. #19
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    66
    Got up there yesterday (Monday) to attempt a long-time goal of bagging a Mt. Washington "Trifecta," i.e., ice climb Pinnacle Gully with snowboard in tow, stash board on top, rappel, climb Pinnacle Buttress, retrieve board, drop a Tuckerman gully on the board. What we ended up doing was climbing 200 feet of ice, and finding out that the exit was a raging waterfall. Unreal! I have video of it that ill try to post. So we rapped from there, dropped the boards, and climbed Pinnacle Buttress. After topping out, we rapped the route, grabbed the boards and headed up Central Gully. Unfortunately, I didnt get above the ice bulge, because I'd chosen to leave the crampons behind with my heavy pack, which I didnt want to board with on the Central descent. Wished I would have figured a way to carry the cramps somehow, because the gully was in prime shape for boarding. As it was, i enjoyed a good 500-600 foot vert descent from the bulge and down the Fan. An amazing alpine day all around! I'll tick the full Trifecta next year!

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