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Thread: Petzl Lynx

  1. #1
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    Petzl Lynx

    Before I start this review, I'd like to make a full disclaimer: this was my first season Ice Climbing. However, these were not my first pair of crampons.

    Pros: I had a very easy time adjusting these crampons. They easily fit my boots (Nepals), and adjustments are quick. Changing from mono to dual is pretty painless and I could even see doing it out in the field with little problem.

    Cons: The front points get loose by the end of any day climbing. I've tried cranking down hard on the nut/bolt, and still I can shake them back and forth by the time I'm done on the ice. I've also had the screws holding the rear anti-bottes unscrew while walking around. Also, the lever-lock system Petzl uses still needs adjustment; the strap should be above the fulcrum, not below.

    Overall: I'll be keeping them.

  2. #2
    Hmm.

    I rocked them all season and have had none of these problems. I am sure i just shot myself in the foot though. I just switched them to mono and i agree painless and easy.

    Only thing i can say is the front points kinda turn inward towards each other on my Baturas a bit more than i would like.

    Other than that they climb way better than my old Sabertooth's....

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Myxomatosis View Post
    Cons: The front points get loose by the end of any day climbing. I've tried cranking down hard on the nut/bolt, and still I can shake them back and forth by the time I'm done on the ice. I've also had the screws holding the rear anti-bottes unscrew while walking around.
    .
    Not sure it will help with the above. I've had success with tightening loose bolts by putting the offender in the freezer for a night and then cranking down hard on them when they are good and chilled.

  4. #4
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    If you have screws loosing up try replacing the nut with a self locking nut, or put blue loctite on them, that should solve your problem.

    These crampons have seen some some pretty bad return rates to vendors due to broken front points. Petzl is using a casting process to produce them and the overall strength is not nearly as strong as a forged point. This is not as much of an issue in dual point as the force is distributed more but be careful in mono. There have been reports of people breaking them on just a few days of climbing.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by oaklem View Post
    If you have screws loosing up try replacing the nut with a self locking nut, or put blue loctite on them, that should solve your problem.

    These crampons have seen some some pretty bad return rates to vendors due to broken front points. Petzl is using a casting process to produce them and the overall strength is not nearly as strong as a forged point. This is not as much of an issue in dual point as the force is distributed more but be careful in mono. There have been reports of people breaking them on just a few days of climbing.
    WTF how can a company as large as Petzl justify not Forge something over casting when they dam well know it is far superior and a break could be a big problem. I got these to replace my stainless BD Sabertooth's being reports where coming in of them cracking.

    I just switched to Mono two weeks ago. I do however carry the extra front point and tools in my pack just in case. Lets just hope just in case in not in a really really bad spot!!

  6. #6
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    Stainless crampons are totally bomber. BD did their homework. If you have the pro model of sabretooth they are much stronger than the clip models and you shouldn't worry about them. It's also odd that people climb ice in horizontal point crampons. Vertical point crampons are significantly more durable and they climb pure ice better. Save your horizontal points for the snow...

    Another thing about the stainless crampons to consider is that you can see cracks in them because there is no paint and can return them to BD. Painted ChroMo pons break too but you wont know it until they they blow up.

    What it boils down to is that people have unrealistic expectations for the longevity of their gear. Most of your climbing gear has a 3-5 year life span and should be replaced. Everything breaks, period.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by oaklem View Post
    Stainless crampons are totally bomber. BD did their homework. If you have the pro model of sabretooth they are much stronger than the clip models and you shouldn't worry about them. It's also odd that people climb ice in horizontal point crampons. Vertical point crampons are significantly more durable and they climb pure ice better. Save your horizontal points for the snow...



    Another thing about the stainless crampons to consider is that you can see cracks in them because there is no paint and can return them to BD. Painted ChroMo pons break too but you wont know it until they they blow up.

    What it boils down to is that people have unrealistic expectations for the longevity of their gear. Most of your climbing gear has a 3-5 year life span and should be replaced. Everything breaks, period.
    Ok i do agree with the everything breaks at some point. Well at least most things break at some point. Very rarely is something made so well you just cant kill it.

    On the other hand something failing like a crampon is just not ok with me. Well i guess it is actually ok with me as i continue to use crampons and ice gear and you hear of the stuff failing all the time.

  8. #8
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    I know this is a gear review of the Lynx and thank you for that info Myxo.. However I do want to comment on the Sabertooths. I'm on my third pair and that is because they have been worn out. Some years I climb a lot and am never gentle with the stuff I use.... "breakage" has never been an issue, just "dullage."

    I have been beating the living crap out of the stainless Sabertooths for two years now. Again no signs of fatigue. Also I've only had to sharpen them a few of times and very lightly on those occasions. The one thing I have yet to do is smack the bjeter belt out of them with a hammer & anvil.

    I like living in a cave where I don't hear reports and replace something that is totally fine.
    I'm on the lamb, but I ain't no sheep

  9. #9
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    Cramer I would not switch to Mono points in the spring ,it is not a good idea in soft ice.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cramer View Post
    Only thing i can say is the front points kinda turn inward towards each other on my Baturas a bit more than i would like.
    I forgot to mention this! I had the same issue, and had to offset the font bail one hole to adjust the points to a more reasonable location. They still point inward a little more than I would want, but it works.

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