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  1. #1
    Member Ridgerunner's Avatar
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    Can you spell "brittle" ?

    Temps are plummeting down up here right now !

  2. #2
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    Pomfret, VT
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    Tomorrow definatly going to be plateing like crazy!

  3. #3
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    I'll take brittle over rain and 40 degrees any day!!! Bring the cold...

  4. #4
    Member gunkiemike's Avatar
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    Dec 2004
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    Hudson Valley NY
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    Stressed ice is so much fun. :-( Last weekend the temp had dropped almost 30 degrees in 24 hours. I kicked my monopoint into a 7ft tall wall of fairly thick ice and BANG it caused a crack that ran vertically through the whole thing.

  5. #5
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    Ice was actually totally FABULOUS today.

  6. #6
    Member fear's Avatar
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    Nov 2004
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    Probably not the best day for steep stuff tomorrow..... I fondly remember NFOP one -10 degree day (the prior night hit -20). Climbed up some rampy stuff to a little vertical bulge and tried to twist a brand new 19cm in... Made all kinds of sqeeking/cracking sounds going in.... Clipped it. Started up and saw it was back-clipped kinda. Went to re-clip and the entire screw plus a 20 pound cone-shaped block of ice around it pulled right out of the face with zero warning...

    Stuck to WI3 rampy stuff and trees for pro that day!

  7. #7
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    Dec 2008
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    One day at the Lake, after a previous day of 45F wet weather and an overnight coldsnap down to -15F, my partner and I went up to do Plug and Chug. We stayed well clear of the base of Mindbender because it was making a lot of spontaneous cracking and booming noises from the thermal stress. We saw little blasts of pulverized ice at the sites of the cracking noises, probably blown out from the horizontal cracking was compressing and blowing out bits of ice. Scary!

  8. #8

    Terrifying Ice Conditions

    Last February we did a 2 week trip to Norway with most of our time spent in Rjukan and a trip up to Eidfjord to try our luck on some bigger lines. It was warm and considering that the fjords are at low altitude and have coastal climates, we stayed in Rjukan for the first whole week before making our move north. Ultimately, we found pretty bad conditions including rain and our big route dreams never materialized. On our way back we stopped in Rjukan again for another couple days of climbing. After two weeks of temps staying within a range of 15 or 20 degrees Fahrenheit probably slightly above freezing more often than below, the cold showed up. Disappointed that we got shut down up in Eidfjord, I was determined to get one more day in before we left. So we headed out of town to find a new area. We hike out, rap down into the canyon and things are immediately bad. The wall is a very wide sheet of ice (maybe 150 ft) that has formed from treeline at the top, down a steep face, and then hits a ledge where the angle eases. We are on what would be a very easy line in normal conditions. Unfortunately, the ice is so hard that my nomics are actually glancing off the ice, which is not helped by the fact that I cant feel my hands and have my thickest gloves on. Also, no matter how deep I kick a foothold, it still feels more like I am edging on slick rock than cramponing up ice with my toes numb in a pair of spantiks. I wont mention the shitty unprotected belay that my partner is standing on directly below... So as I climb up and move above the ledgey area at the bottom of the sheet I start hearing these sounds like submarines make in movies when they go too deep. My next swing lets me know just how much tension is on the sheet of ice, which is basically attached at both ends and being stretched by its own contraction. My tool hits the ice with a loud snap, and cracks shoot both left and right from my tool placement as far as I can see in either direction. The one swing has created a crack at least 20 ft in either direction from where I contacted the ice. Now I'm horrified and start making a pact with god that I'll be a more respectful climber if he just lets me reach the anchors without dying. Ultimately, it wasn't really that dangerous, the sheet was not going to release from the wall but it surely felt like the real deal at the time. I reneged on all my promises to god about my proposed aversion to risk if he saved me but even though it was only late February, that was the last ice climb I did last year.

  9. #9
    Member Ridgerunner's Avatar
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    Yikes ! How is the climbing around Rjukan ? Worthwhile on its own ?

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Ridgerunner View Post
    Yikes ! How is the climbing around Rjukan ? Worthwhile on its own ?
    Yes, no doubt about it Rjukan is an ice climbers paradise. There is a TON of climbing, as hard or as easy as you want in and around the valley and its all clearly shown in a brand new english guidebook. Check out our photos and send me a message if you need any more information. Do start saving money; food, libations, and lodging are expensive.

    https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...1&l=0a0092005c

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