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Thread: Rumney Mixed

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Southern NY
    Posts
    257

    Rumney Mixed

    Climbed at Rumney for the first time this past weekend. Did Selsun Blue, then walked left to what we assumed was Mandilbe and Jaws Pillar. Both were baked and wicked detached from the rock. The ice was thick enough to stand on it's own though, and took screws where they were needed. There are two obvious mixed routes to the right of what we think is Mandible. The plum to pick here is a 35'runnel that flows down a narrow, vertical groove, with bolts on the left wall. The ice is never wider then 12 inces or so, and ends at a steep slabby traverse into a 40' slightly overhanging handcrack. Please tell me someone has sent this line already. The ice guide has no mention of this line. Seems like a gem. The ice was baked, and would have all come crashing down had we tried the line. It's a route I would actually drive up from New Paltz for. Anyone know if it has been done?

    RR

  2. #2
    Poser
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    concord nh
    Posts
    2,247

    Re: Rumney Mixed

    Rob,
    Mandible & Jaws are on the Orange Crush Cliff's right side, far to the right from the Selsun/ Cave route area. If you were at Selsun you would have walked under the huge Main Cliff first then right more to the also huge Orange Crush wall.
    As far as the guide goes... some friends & I submitted a lot for Rumney and it still got recorded not quite right!
    New lines can always come in so one never knows...
    Feel free to pm me some more info and I'll see if I can help.. I'm glad you saw something super cool and worth driving 6hrs. up for!

    peas ~AC
    I'm on the lamb, but I ain't no sheep

  3. #3
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Southern NY
    Posts
    257

    Re: Rumney Mixed

    Alfonzo, we were definitely confused as to where we were, none of us really being familiar with the cliffs. We were at Selsun Blue, wich was confirmed by other parties. We followed the cliffline right, towards the parking lot about 300 yards or so to the end of the next cliff. There is a steep gully between two cliffs with fixed ladders in it. We climbed immediately left of the gully on a long rambling flow with a short steep headwall on top...about 130' in all. the left side of the flow came in as a delicate pillar in the 4+ range. The two mixed routes we looked at were on the left end of the next cliff to the right. I wish we had taken pics, but we are Luddites. Anyway, I am never one for keeping secrets, and if someone takes my description and gives it a go.....good luck!!! I would think that it would need to be infused with some more moisture and a good cloudy cold snap to rebond the ice to the wall.

    RR

  4. #4
    Rumney, NH
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Rumney, NH
    Posts
    5
    Hi Ranger Rob,
    I know I'm a few years late on this post, but I just read it and wanted to let you know that the big flow you climbed left of the latters and stuff is called Learning Disabilities. There is a mixed climb left of that called Artificial Intellegence. It sounds like the sweet thing you were looking at is in fact Jaws. That is on the lower end of Orange Crush and it has the runnel to the traverse to the overhanging ice bulge finish. It is the most obvious piece of winter action when you look over right from Learning Disabilities, and the upper part does get baked out from time to time. Mandible is just right of that one.

    There was a few weeks this winter when those climbs looked incredible but my camera either died or I didn't have it when I wanted to get the sweet shots. Unfortunately, there aren't really any pictures of Jaws and Rumney Ice routes are confusing enough especially for the non-local. Maybe next year I'll try again to get photos for Mountain Project with topos to help filter out some confusion.

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