Smuggs Conditions

[gk5000]

I haven't been climbing much ice this year; skiing instead. I haven't been up to the Notch since early in the season. Anyone have a recent conditions observation from the notch proper? Particularly interested in Elephant's Head or Easy Gully. Any recent activity on those routes to tame the suck factor of wallowing in the snow? Any snow pack observations would be appreciated, I know I've been seeing more evidence of wind affects the past couple weeks when skiing.

[fear]

I haven't been up there but I'm sure Both are in. Watch for avalanches on the approach to Elephant's... That whole section has slid in the past....

[Argabarga]

I was in the notch this past tuesday, conditions are looking very poor. With lots of direct sunlight and temps hovering around 50 the two days prior everything on elephants head side seems to be severely sun baked. We had intended to climb Dave's Snot but it was nearly nonexistent, Blue Room seemed full enough to climb in the center but everything around it was de-laminated and sloughing off. Looking up at the head I saw the same conditions with ice falling every few minutes. I'm sure any shaded gully will be macho right now and full of hero ice as long as it is out of the direct sunlight.

If it does not drop in temp within the next few days I fear we may have climbed our last ice of the season.

I'd love to hear from anyone who has been up later this week if that report has changed!

-Argabarga

[Jbossin]

I was in the notch yesterday. Conditions have held on most everywhere after a couple of warm days. We climbed Terror-Tory, which is huge right now. A party was headed up to do Hidden. Jeffs, ENT, and Grand Confusion all still with lots and lots of ice to climb. Blue Ice Bulge looks just fine from the road. Overall, I would say that we took a hit with the warm spell, but anything that was standing after Wed is still in good shape and should be at least until the next big heat up.

[Dave095790]

Anyone been in recently for an update? Thanks!

[Jbossin]

I just went up Jeff Slide today for a quick climb. Didn't walk around the corner to see what things look like, but Workoutwall looks fine from the road, right side a little thin down low but still in. Jeffs is big and fat still. Some weird features and funky ice, but as to be expected with the temp changes. (see pic below for Jeff condition)

[D-Roc]

Went up to Hidden on Saturday, good times all around, a couple other parties followed...

Ice was okay for the most part - a fair amount of displacement, definitely brittle for the most part and required a few whacks for a confident pull on the tool.

One note there was a massive avalanche that ripped from the amphitheater - it ripped down to the base ice and through the choke down to the second snowfield and through to the initial chasm at the start of the climb. the middle tree at the base of the first snowfield was totally wiped out. So keep your eyes open especially with warmer temps coming in down the road.

[Jbossin]

Climbed Hidden today. Plenty of nice ice and snow up there. Looking across at the Playground, saw the usual late season horizontal in the pillar. (see photo) Be carful out there late season folks!