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  1. #1
    New Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2014

    Standard Route/Frankenstein 12/18/14

    My husband and I climbed Standard Route yesterday on 12/18/14 after a failed attempt on Landslide Gully. There were two parties of two on Standard Route, doing the left and right side up to the cave. Overall, the ice was on the thinner side and hollow, but it took 13" screws with no problems, and was good to climb on. It was in good enough shape to climb, but not the fattest I've ever seen. If you go left of the cave, there is a large waterfall running down that section, so I might not go that way. To the right of the cave was thin, but looks climbable. All in all, it's in.

    We did the practice slabs after, and they were thin and hollow, but climbable. The top section below the tree anchor is rock exposed and very dicey. We went a little left of the tree, and then had to use some rock features to hook on. Not a good lead right now for a beginner (FYI). The ice barely took 13" screws. Only one section really offered a good enough bulge for a 13" ice screw.

    Dracula---Looks thin and vertical, and more like a WI 5 right now.
    Bob's Delight---Out (just rock)
    Chia---Out, but trying
    Pegasus--- The main pillar looks the worst that I have ever seen it. The top pillar on the rock finish variation doesn't look bad if you can find ice at the beginning to get on. There's not much down low.
    Hobbit Couloir---- It looks like the top pillar is thin and could be done if it isn't detached, but it's the lower section on Pegasus that doesn't look like it's in.

  2. #2
    Not exactly what I wanted to hear about the conditions.... slow start this year. Thanks for the comprehensive report. I sure it will help others in their quest for ice.


  3. #3
    Penguin 2nd pitch is definitely IN and getting climbed... as usual the 1st pitch ain't quite there yet.

    Hobbit has been climbed a couple times... expect turf sticks after the business...

    Rock finish on Pegasus is OK...

    Elephants Head took full length screws to the top today as it was getting dark

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