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View Full Version : ice conditions in NH



john311tran
01-15-2014, 06:42 PM
has anyone been up this week so far?

i'm looking to take a few beginners up to setup TR but i'm not sure where to go. cathedral works, but it was so busy this past weekend.

i heard kingsman was wet as heck. i'm assuming the flume floor is out and i saw pics that champney was a waterfall again.

any ideas?

thanks!

john

ABuchan
01-15-2014, 08:03 PM
I'm looking for ice conditions in Crawford Notch for tomorrow/Friday? Anyone been up in the last few days?

CMG
01-16-2014, 09:24 AM
A lot of things took a pretty good beating these past few days. The floor or Champney was reportedly washed out, and I wouldn't go into the Flume either until it cools a bit.

For top roping sites... the North End at Cathedral is going to be fine, Lost in the Forest at Frankenstein probably, and the ice was so fat at the Texaco Amphitheater last week that despite it's southern aspect it should be okay up and left. Just keep an eye on the hanging ice as you hike in, it's safe once you'r settled in.

As for Crawford in general, the shady stuff at Frankenstein looks fine (furthest along the tracks), and East Face of Willard still looks pretty good.

john311tran
01-16-2014, 07:47 PM
A lot of things took a pretty good beating these past few days. The floor or Champney was reportedly washed out, and I wouldn't go into the Flume either until it cools a bit.

For top roping sites... the North End at Cathedral is going to be fine, Lost in the Forest at Frankenstein probably, and the ice was so fat at the Texaco Amphitheater last week that despite it's southern aspect it should be okay up and left. Just keep an eye on the hanging ice as you hike in, it's safe once you'r settled in.

As for Crawford in general, the shady stuff at Frankenstein looks fine (furthest along the tracks), and East Face of Willard still looks pretty good.

thanks for that info!

is TR setup pretty easy (trees? for anchors) at texaco and frankenstien? i have never been to either location and would love to set something up over there. probably 2-3 anchors so i can move the rope around if possible.

cathedral is always nice cus so many people are up there and it's nice to share lines!

john

treehumper
01-16-2014, 09:53 PM
Texaco would be your easiest bet for TR setup. You can walk up on the left and right sides. Lots of trees up top. As CMG said stay left because the right side could be sketchy from all the crap weather we had.

john311tran
01-17-2014, 12:20 AM
Texaco would be your easiest bet for TR setup. You can walk up on the left and right sides. Lots of trees up top. As CMG said stay left because the right side could be sketchy from all the crap weather we had.

i've never been to texaco. is it pretty obvious? ie: take davis path about 1/4 mile in, then take a left and i should see the amphitheater?

treehumper
01-17-2014, 09:39 AM
Cross the bridge and follow the river left. Trail should be beat up because of lack of snow. Today is possibly sunny and in the 40s with some cold air coming in tonight. South facing stuff could be questionable so be aware. Cold next week!

kobrien87
01-17-2014, 06:27 PM
Anyone go up in Crawford Notch today? Wondering what Willard looked like.

Jacon
01-17-2014, 06:48 PM
Looked good yesterday. Fat, even.

Meghdoot
01-17-2014, 10:38 PM
Looked good yesterday. Fat, even.
Sounds great.

We are planning to couple of climbs in Crawford area. Appreciate any information on current conditions.
1. Cinema
2. Willy's slide
3. Monkey wrench and Cleft
4. Shoestring
5. Landslide

Thanks.

Meghdoot
01-18-2014, 08:33 PM
We climbed gully # 1 and Monkey Wrench today. Both are in as well as top parts - Hitchcock, east face right, Cleft looked good. Elephant gully is in as well.

Sk8ter617
01-20-2014, 08:54 AM
Climbed shoestring late on Saturday 1/18/2014. The approach has about 0 snow pack. It's just rock and thin covered rock. Microspikes would have been useful, but I don't usually bring them on something like this. Once you reach the gully proper the Ice was really good with enough snow pack to keep crampons on. The ice was fat and solid, none of us had any concerns at any point. Some dinner plating but it wasn't awful. We chose the gully exit as it was late and we couldn't see up in the chimney very well. There is a funky ice bulge up the gully exit, only about 10-12 feet tall, but the left side was easy to get up and around it. The snow climb out from there is awesome, very full.

Boot pack to the approach is well laid-in and the boot pack out of the gully exit was easy enough to follow. Webster cliff trail was in good shape as well.