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View Full Version : Huntington Ravine, Whats in?



CJE123
12-14-2012, 10:40 AM
Headed up on Monday for a few days and was curious what was climbable up there? Also wondering if and how much rock gear we may need? Any info would greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

mleathem
12-14-2012, 02:58 PM
I haven't been up for a few weeks, but based on the weather we've had this week, and the relative short warm-up we had a few weeks ago everything in the ravine should be pretty good to go to take screws. A small rock rack probably still wouldn't hurt, but we've had lots of low teens all week probably making for lots of stable ice. know with the lack of snow the approach is still pretty slow going.

CJE123
12-14-2012, 06:10 PM
Thanks for info. Was hoping to climb Pinnacle, O'dell's or Yale. I was going to throw in a set of nuts, should throw in anything else?

mikeg
12-14-2012, 07:37 PM
What is this NEClimbs? Seriously.

paulbalegend
12-14-2012, 08:26 PM
Headed up on Monday for a few days and was curious what was climbable up there? Also wondering if and how much rock gear we may need? Any info would greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

MC climbed Pinnacle yesterday, seems to be in decent early season conditions. Heinous approach though, icy low on the tux tr (bring microspikes), super rocky alluvial fan (no snowslope like usual). Marc's report is here:
http://www.chauvinguides.com/conditions.htm

FWIW, Tux seems to be in really good shape for climbing ice right now. I'm headed up to there early tmrw morn, and we haven't decided which ravine to climb in yet. I don't like the idea of wallowing up the fan, but I'd really rather climb some well-defined gullies. We'll prolly do Pinnacle and/or Odells.


What is this NEClimbs? Seriously.

mikeg, what is that supposed to mean? Whatever you're trying to say, that's entirely unhelpful. If that's all you have to say, why even bother replying?

piste
12-15-2012, 03:13 PM
Did Pinnacle last Sunday. I thought approach was petty good, easy and quick. Didn't need any rock pros, few 16s few 13s, 22 for an anchor. Never needed to search for placement, it was all there. Did it in 2 pitches, first belay by 3 pins and next to the top. I'll bet it's in great condition now.

tacoleman1
12-15-2012, 04:08 PM
Climbed pinnacle 12/14(Friday). Approach was icy and bones all the way up to the climb. Micro spikes work very well. Pitch one was ok. The crux part was not totally fat, but plenty of ice to navigate. Water is running pretty good underneath. Pitch 2 sounded like a drum here and there. We stayed right and ice was good. Pitch 3 same drumming and good/fat ice on the far right,up to exit or snow up through the middle. Escape hatch is not a good exit so we took lions head (summer route) which was very icy/boney. Good trip in the mountains, but it will be so much better when there is SNOW and more ice.
P.s. Odell's looked really good! We saw a group of 3 on it and later meet up with them. They said many lines available. Central good

alpendrms
12-15-2012, 06:32 PM
Any word on Damnation? I'm headed up there for Christmas week & hoping to get onto a nice long multipitch. Thanks for any info!

paulbalegend
12-15-2012, 11:34 PM
Any word on Damnation? I'm headed up there for Christmas week & hoping to get onto a nice long multipitch. Thanks for any info!

Climbed Odells today (12/15/12), and I can report the ice was quite excellent. :D In fact, it seemed almost as thick and good as when I did it last March! The WI2 ramp on the left was not in (thin with some running water under it), but the curtain to the right of this was in fat, as was everything else in the gully, including the steeper far right side. We saw five parties doing all sides of the gully. I even sank several 22s. Finally, the snow gully above the ice (left) was pretty cool: instead of the usual snow climb, it had a little ice (easily soloed), turf sticks, and some mild trashing.

We heard reports of two Pinnacle climbs today, which stated there is enough ice to climb, but that it was not always good quality and there was some running water.

Damnation, as well as the whole right half of the ravine, looked fairly lean. Bear in mind that I was looking from a fair distance away.

Also, it should be noted that the approaches and descents are horribly annoying right now, owing to the complete lack of snow. Microspikes are a must for the generally rocky and extremely icy Tux trail. Its icy enough where you actually need traction, but I wouldn't want to have to use 'pons, as it is quite rocky and varied.

Enjoy!

alpendrms
12-16-2012, 08:46 AM
Climbed Odells today (12/15/12), and I can report the ice was quite excellent. :D In fact, it seemed almost as thick and good as when I did it last March! The WI2 ramp on the left was not in (thin with some running water under it), but the curtain to the right of this was in fat, as was everything else in the gully, including the steeper far right side. We saw five parties doing all sides of the gully. I even sank several 22s. Finally, the snow gully above the ice (left) was pretty cool: instead of the usual snow climb, it had a little ice (easily soloed), turf sticks, and some mild trashing.

We heard reports of two Pinnacle climbs today, which stated there is enough ice to climb, but that it was not always good quality and there was some running water.

Damnation, as well as the whole right half of the ravine, looked fairly lean. Bear in mind that I was looking from a fair distance away.

Also, it should be noted that the approaches and descents are horribly annoying right now, owing to the complete lack of snow. Microspikes are a must for the generally rocky and extremely icy Tux trail. Its icy enough where you actually need traction, but I wouldn't want to have to use 'pons, as it is quite rocky and varied.

Enjoy!

Thanks for the beta! Looks like snow is forecasted for NH very soon, so maybe the routes will get into "proper full condition"!

rwleonard
12-16-2012, 03:24 PM
Climbed Odells today (12/15/12), and I can report the ice was quite excellent. :D In fact, it seemed almost as thick and good as when I did it last March! The WI2 ramp on the left was not in (thin with some running water under it), but the curtain to the right of this was in fat, as was everything else in the gully, including the steeper far right side. We saw five parties doing all sides of the gully. I even sank several 22s. Finally, the snow gully above the ice (left) was pretty cool: instead of the usual snow climb, it had a little ice (easily soloed), turf sticks, and some mild trashing.

We heard reports of two Pinnacle climbs today, which stated there is enough ice to climb, but that it was not always good quality and there was some running water.

Damnation, as well as the whole right half of the ravine, looked fairly lean. Bear in mind that I was looking from a fair distance away.

Also, it should be noted that the approaches and descents are horribly annoying right now, owing to the complete lack of snow. Microspikes are a must for the generally rocky and extremely icy Tux trail. Its icy enough where you actually need traction, but I wouldn't want to have to use 'pons, as it is quite rocky and varied.

Enjoy!

I went up Pinnacle yesterday (awesome climb) and the reports you heard are pretty accurate. Here's a picture from the base of the first pitch to give you an idea of what it looks like right now. Odell's looked to be in decent condition. Central Gully was in, but didn't look like it would take much in the way of screws. I saw some climbers on what looked like Yale, as well.

alpendrms
12-17-2012, 06:56 AM
Thanks! Great pic, too! Once I do the drive up there, I'm pretty sure I'll be happy to get onto any route in Huntington. I was hoping Damnation would be in, but Odell or Pinnacle would be just fine.

RangerRob
12-24-2012, 11:08 AM
Climbed Pinnacle on Saturday the 22nd. Found beautiful approach conditions up the scree and talus. The cone to the start of the route was perfect snice. The first pitch is still mostly ice, but from the fixed anchor on the left on it was fun and easy climbing on snice, with the occasional ice bulge for a screw. Could still hear a lot of water running below though.

We walked over to Damnation afterwards to try to get two in, but the wind had picked up throughout the morning and the snow was pretty heavy, reducing visibility to near zero and loading the hardpack quickly with a good amont of fresh snow, so we bailed.

alpendrms
12-27-2012, 04:42 AM
Climbed Pinnacle yesterday with Kurt Winkler...awesome guy to rope up with! The route was in good condition, and remained firm throughout since it is in shade for most all of it. I'll second RangerRob's post above....nice bulges for screws. We used 16's and stubbies mostly, but got in a couple longer ones at belays. Someone before us left a nice V-thread on a bulge that is still bomber that we used as an intermediate piece. A couple pieces of rock pro helped at some spots. Perfect styrofoam above pitch 2. We stayed to the left at the top to avoid some pillows and stuff that looked a bit loose. I dropped an OR Warrant Glove from the top of pitch 2 while clipping them to my harness....so if anyone finds it, please PM me! Just got 'em at IME! Saw a bit of slide activity down Central Gully and heard more of the same over toward North and Damnation. Big enough to knock someone off their stance, so be careful! The Alpine Garden is well covered and firm in most spots, making for an easier traverse over to Lion's Head for descent. Great day in the hills! I'll post pics as soon as I upload them to my computer.

alpendrms
12-27-2012, 08:44 AM
Good conditions on Pinnacle yesterday....some slide activity to the north.

FullertonImages
12-28-2012, 02:18 PM
Great beta everyone!

I'll be up there Sunday/Monday, alpendrms, so I'll keep an eye out for a glove, if no one else has found it yet.

Hw are snow levels with the the deposition lately? Mostly blown free? My wife and brought avy gear home with us to, but I would guess its not needed, yeah?

Cheers!

alpendrms
12-29-2012, 01:43 AM
Great beta everyone!

I'll be up there Sunday/Monday, alpendrms, so I'll keep an eye out for a glove, if no one else has found it yet.

Hw are snow levels with the the deposition lately? Mostly blown free? My wife and brought avy gear home with us to, but I would guess its not needed, yeah?

Cheers!
The avy danger has moved into the "considerable" range....so, maybe let the snow pack settle for a wee bit, especially after the last dump. We stayed well to the left as we topped out of the gully & avoided the loose stuff. There was a cornice that had built up immediately to the left at the top that we remained roped up for and kept a good belay to cross over. That put us at the Alpine Garden, which gave us firm snow over to the row of cairns and the descent down Lion's Head. When we did the route on the 26th, the avy rating was posted as "moderate". We didn't carry avy gear, but definitely took a very close look at the rout before proceeding, and we also ensured that we stayed closer to the left rock wall whenever possible, especially at the belays. Hope that helps & be safe up there! Remember....the mountain isn't going anywhere....you can always go for it on a day when conditions are right.