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View Full Version : Little Stony Man Cliffs for Mixed?



alpendrms
12-04-2012, 02:21 PM
A small drool was forming along the right (facing the cliffs) side, near the NOC wall / Who's There Arete. I'm sure it has melted out due to these disgusting warm temps, but it may re-freeze and grow as winter progresses. If the conditions are good later this winter, it looks like it could reach the ground. At the very least, it might offer an interesting mixed "Scottish style" climb....or could end up just being a horror show. If it ends up extending to the base, it probably won't ever take screws, but gear could possibly be placed in the adjacent rock features. Folks could always TR it. No pics, as that it was not yet worthy, but I will be keeping an eye on it...especially if we get a good cold snap. Trying to practice up before heading to NH for Christmas, and then again in Feb for the Ice Fest in the Mount Washington Valley.

Cheers! Pray for snow/ice/cold weather!

andrzejczak
12-05-2012, 06:57 AM
Hey man – I would just strongly reconsider mix climbing at LSM! There are plenty other areas to ice/mix climb in SNP.

Piotr

deltabrian
12-05-2012, 09:29 AM
This is a well established rock climbing area. I second what Piotr stated. Be very careful of climbing along that wall. There are better ice formations in the Park that aren't on established rock climbing walls. Some may be closer to LSM than you think ;)

alpendrms
12-05-2012, 09:31 AM
Hey man I would just strongly reconsider mix climbing at LSM! There are plenty other areas to ice/mix climb in SNP.

Piotr

Yeah....check. I know there are other places. I'm not going out and tearing up established rock routes, so don't worry about that. Just identifying a potential spot that showed promise given the right ice conditions.

virginiapine
12-05-2012, 03:25 PM
Don't even think it! The managers in SNP have expressed grave disapproval in the past when I brought to their attention that this (deviant) aspect of climbing has become popular over the past several years. Scratching up, and possibly yanking off bits of a cliff, at a spot immeadiately next to an extremely popular trail is "Not A Good Idea". Look for other spots well off-trail if you really want to pursue this.
As a matter of fact the ROMP (Rock Outcrop Management Plan) is back on the table again, after a couple-year hiatus (due to personnel changes at SNP, I think). This is to preserve the unique flora of the outcrops. Development to the left and right of current routes at LSM will probably be prohibited, as well as the summit cliff of Hawksbill.

alpendrms
12-05-2012, 07:04 PM
Don't even think it! The managers in SNP have expressed grave disapproval in the past when I brought to their attention that this (deviant) aspect of climbing has become popular over the past several years. Scratching up, and possibly yanking off bits of a cliff, at a spot immeadiately next to an extremely popular trail is "Not A Good Idea". Look for other spots well off-trail if you really want to pursue this.
As a matter of fact the ROMP (Rock Outcrop Management Plan) is back on the table again, after a couple-year hiatus (due to personnel changes at SNP, I think). This is to preserve the unique flora of the outcrops. Development to the left and right of current routes at LSM will probably be prohibited, as well as the summit cliff of Hawksbill.

Hey! OK....I have not, repeat, have not....scratched up any routes! I have only been on chossy, mossy, dirty, small outcrops off of the trail that are no where near the established routes. When I climb at LSM, I am using mountain boots, trad pro, carrying a pack to replicate winter/alpine conditions for bigger projects. And before anyone starts getting worked up about my anchors at the top, i keep them all on the cliff side of the trail, as per the rules. The tools stay sheathed until I go to work on the non-established outcrops. Even then, I take care with placements in order to finess the movement versus bashing away. I did not intend to have folks begin lighting the torches! I know about the potential access issues and the changes that SNP may institute.

JDCII
12-06-2012, 03:06 PM
was just forwarded a copy of the National park Service Rock Outcrop management Plan...and it is sort of scarey!
everyone please take the time to read this, pass it on, and voice your well thought out opinions before the public comment period is over. Haven't finished reading yet, but climbing, including ice climbing in SNP is looking pretty dismal if this passes as it stands. they seem to be focusing like 95% of the issues on climbers...who are probably a less than 5% rock outcrop user.
JD

Scottie loves ice
12-06-2012, 03:45 PM
What issues are they citing climbers as being responsible for. Is the access fund involved in this?

vice
12-29-2012, 05:59 PM
I say tear-it-up while you can. If everybody does it, then they can't stop us! Dry tool rock routes in the winter, dry tool rock routes in the summer. Once everything is scratched and busted loose, those weeds won't grow there again. Given the fiscal cliff is right around the corner, there will be no Rangers to stop us. And once they take away their guns, then only the bad boys will have them. I totally support using axes and crampons on all routes, all the time! That's how I role!

vdotmatrix
02-25-2014, 03:23 PM
Yeah it was almost 10 years ago when we were all hot and bothered about ROMP and any meaningful move SNP would make to approach sensible climbing managment that would bring them in line with the rest of the country.....We spent a lot of freaking time and money and did I say time only to have personell change and 10 years later they are trying to start the machine again...and a whole new cadre of people In and Out of the scene playing the same music and doing the same dance. In this way, they keep the climbing community hobbled and repressed and empower folks to feel in the know or in the loop....jumping through NPS hoops....Hey, no one more than me wants to see our climbing area protected for climbing but I also want to see it being used. Our community has climbed there since at least 1954 so I don't get too excited at this point......
was just forwarded a copy of the National park Service Rock Outcrop management Plan...and it is sort of scarey!
everyone please take the time to read this, pass it on, and voice your well thought out opinions before the public comment period is over. Haven't finished reading yet, but climbing, including ice climbing in SNP is looking pretty dismal if this passes as it stands. they seem to be focusing like 95% of the issues on climbers...who are probably a less than 5% rock outcrop user.
JD

vdotmatrix
02-25-2014, 03:24 PM
Yeah it was almost 10 years ago when we were all hot and bothered about ROMP and any meaningful move SNP would make to approach sensible climbing managment that would bring them in line with the rest of the country.....We spent a lot of freaking time and money and did I say time only to have personell change and 10 years later they are trying to start the machine again...and a whole new cadre of people In and Out of the scene playing the same music and doing the same dance. In this way, they keep the climbing community hobbled and repressed and empower folks to feel in the know or in the loop....jumping through NPS hoops....Hey, no one more than me wants to see our climbing area protected for climbing but I also want to see it being used. Our community has climbed there since at least 1954 so I don't get too excited at this point......
was just forwarded a copy of the National park Service Rock Outcrop management Plan...and it is sort of scarey!
everyone please take the time to read this, pass it on, and voice your well thought out opinions before the public comment period is over. Haven't finished reading yet, but climbing, including ice climbing in SNP is looking pretty dismal if this passes as it stands. they seem to be focusing like 95% of the issues on climbers...who are probably a less than 5% rock outcrop user.
JD

spot6878
02-26-2014, 09:33 AM
According to NPS LE Rangers the marks left by dry tooling could cause you to be charged with vandalism and destruction of government property. Use our resources wisely so that we can continue to use them.
Sean