View Full Version : Black Dike???

11-27-2012, 09:25 PM
anybody seen the condtitions on black dike recently. want to head out this weekend or next.

11-27-2012, 09:43 PM
the photo those guys posted from up on lincoln /lafeatte looks Fat..

11-28-2012, 05:49 AM
I haven't been up there but the conditions photo tradman mentions looks like there's ice top to bottom. But, I'd guess thin at the crux. Be prepared to do the rock traverse and some thin runout climbing on the middle pitch above it. It might not be that bad but best to be ready for it.

11-28-2012, 07:31 AM
Oh Cmon. that's fat for you rocky;) My guess is that the right hand finish w/ and orange TCU might be the way to go?

11-28-2012, 09:55 AM
Drove by it Tues afternoon. Looked like a ribbon top to bottom. Not much ice visible in the Notch except higher up.

Tyler Lappetito
11-29-2012, 10:15 PM
I climbed it today and it's in good early season shape. Good protection on the first pitch. Second pitch required the rock traverse, took a few screws, and lots of good rock gear. Definitely thin. Did the right hand finish to exit.

12-27-2012, 06:42 AM
How are the conditions in there right now, and how are they after a bunch of snow. looking to get in there early friday morning if the road conditions permit?????

12-27-2012, 06:55 AM
The Dike is good right now and getting climbed a bunch. (photos in the galley) As for the snow, it's winter man!

12-27-2012, 03:27 PM
Climbed the Dike yesterday and it was awesome. I opted for the rock traverse. The rest of the climb was in thick. Overall, it is in great condition.

The new snow will make the decent real easy on the knees! It was a bit icy for us.

12-29-2012, 10:28 AM
Has anyone climbed the dike since the 27th, how are the conditions? I've never climbed the dike before are there any avalnche concerns?

12-30-2012, 09:25 AM
We were on it yesterday with a bunch of other climbers. A couple from montana, mark and Laura And 3 in our party. Pitch 1 is in pretty good conditions with plenty of ice and options. Pitch 2 has a few options also. We did the thin runnel to the bottom left of the rock traverse belay. Ice was just a little thin for my liking (IMHO). My buddy lead it and loved it. The rock traverse was pretty easy for the group ahead of us and bypassed most of the thin stuff on the runnel. Rest of the ice all the way up was great. The topout was good turf shots and the walk off was the real adventure yesterday. We started breaking trail and realized we weren't really sure where the trail was. We waited for mark richey to topout with his partner and followed him out( thanks mark).
All in all it was a great day of climbing and meeting some cool people.

01-07-2013, 11:01 AM
So I am dumb and dropped a bunch of stuff in the parking lot at Cannon on Friday, Jan 4. Green cord, 'biners marked with two nail polished orange stripes. If anyone managed to find them, it would be awesome.

Also, conditions were awesome. Get on it!

01-09-2013, 12:57 PM
Got on this just after the New Year.

1st Pitch: Thick enough, plenty of ice. Found a good v-thread with cord at the top.
2nd Pitch: Snowy traverse, plenty of ice in the runnel for pro. Most of the cord is ice over at the anchors.
3rd Pitch: Good fat ice with turf at the top. Well established descent trail when we were there.

Basically nothing new from what tacoleman1 has mentioned haha.

BOOTY ALERT: My buddy dropped a 19cm BD Express screw when cleaning the 2nd or 3rd pitch. It probably got catapulted to the bottom of the climb. I'll abide by booty rules in this case, but if you feel like mailing it back to me (at my expense of course), please message me :). It has white tape wrapped around the smaller hole on the hanger.

01-11-2013, 05:41 PM
Yotsuba, we were there today, soory did not notice any booty at the bottom or any place else.

However, the conditions could have been better. This poor climb has been ascended so many times i dont think i took a real swing into virgin ice the whole way. There were so many screw holes the ice looked to have been attacked by some sort boring machine! It was truly a great day and and fun for our party of three. Car to car time: 6hrs,

01-14-2013, 04:41 PM
We are looking at climbing options for this weekend and wanting to utilize our time wisely. Anyone have more current pitch 2 conditions for the black dike?

01-15-2013, 05:06 PM
Right now, I'd say bring your nuts... By this weekend, you might just get a good screw.

Double Entendres totally intended

01-15-2013, 10:01 PM
Hard telling? it might freze up good again or the 2nd pitch could dry right up like it has after previous january thaws where the refreeze was slow cold and dry without new snow.

01-17-2013, 11:40 PM
Did it today. First pitch was fine, solo'd it. The steep part of the second pitch after the traverse was almost non existent. Couldn't get any good gear till I got to the fix pin on the right, maybe 30-40 feet up, I managed to sling around a few rocks in the thin part... Third pitch was like climbing cement. Either Bullet hard or chandeliered and fragile... but there was plenty of ice. I think its going to need quite some time before you get a stubby in on that steep part.


01-18-2013, 07:00 AM
Jake, nice work!

01-18-2013, 08:50 AM
Great shots. BD is at the top of my lead list and I love seeing shots of it.

01-18-2013, 07:01 PM
I drove past it today (fri. 18th.) No avy concerns, there is snow but not much... The talus could be as hard as p2. p1 & 3 looked good. p2? be ready for spice! Now this is a "from the road" opinion, which don't mean shit.

01-29-2013, 02:56 PM
Great day on Sunday (1/27), although very cold and windy. Surprised to see the parking lot was empty all day!

Conditions were thin and hollow in many spots. It looks like a lot of ice delaminated in the last thaw and there hasn't been enough moisture to refreeze things. It's just gotten dry and brittle.

Can't complain too much when you have the cliff all to yourself though. Go get it!

467 466

01-29-2013, 03:06 PM
Condition photo here..


No avalanche conditions with the latest snow conditions..if there is a lot of snow watch out on the approach just below the start of the climb...come in from the left.