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Alpa
11-09-2012, 01:07 AM
Pinacle is in. 1st pitch take 16cm. 2nd is running water that can be bypassed on the left with stubbies. See pix here: http://www.escaladequebec.com/Forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=8829

Enjoy.

homeless junkie
11-09-2012, 10:38 AM
Awesome!! nice pictures too.

firemantim
11-09-2012, 11:23 AM
Yes. Now all I need is a Winter Lager and officially winter...

Med1
11-10-2012, 05:00 AM
Climbed it yesterday 11/9/12. 1st pitch wasn't too bad. Last pitches we soloed and were dicey but doable. Given the weather it's probably going to get worse before it gets better with a warm front moving in, but yesterday was a awesome day on the mountain. I'll start a thread with more pics too.

Med1
11-10-2012, 05:02 AM
if you plan on going up this weekend 16 cm screws are no good. Had to dig for mediocre placements if 10 and 13 cm screws. Bring your rock pro radar and some mixed climbing is a definite.

leaf
11-11-2012, 09:50 PM
281
Conditions on 11.10.12
(click on image to enlarge)

JohnnyG
11-11-2012, 10:21 PM
wow! Leaf, that pic looks like super fun conditions.

Tuco
11-12-2012, 05:23 AM
Yes... Nice Leaf, wish there was a pic. of your foliage though.

leaf
11-12-2012, 06:13 PM
Tuco, photosynthesis is ova!

markmythoughts
11-15-2012, 11:32 AM
My buddy and I are hoping to drive up from NJ to climb Pinnacle and Mt. Lincoln this weekend. I've been watching the fluctuating weather on Mt. Washington and would assume last week's ice is still there? Its an 8 hour drive so any confirmations from those with experience and first hand knowledge would be great. Will Pinnacle and Lincoln still have ice? Will conditions be "in"? Thanks so much.

leaf
11-15-2012, 06:29 PM
I would guess that areas that are both higher in elevation and somewhat shaded (areas you mentioned) would still have ice in them this weekend, however "in" would be defined as thin ice with a high probability of flowing water underneath. We've gotten no new precip and the sun has been out every day this week, which has melted any of the previous light snowfalls we've received. So the gullies in Huntington that receive sunlight are dry as a bone. Pinnacle is in constant shade and has a perennial waterfall, so that water could remain frozen.. however, the flow is quite large so it takes more colder nights and colder temperatures to freeze it the first place.

Mt. Lincoln may be your better bet. And consider King Ravine which never gets sunlight because its north facing. Lines there may be thin and unprotectable. Drainages like the Great Gully are "easy", nothing above WI2 climbing so if you are ok with a mellow ice day and soloing, I'd recommend that. But it's also a hike in (4+ miles) so some consider it a gamble or even "not worth it" if there's no ice.

It's been dry and sunny out there.. we need some additional snow and some cloudy cold days to help things build. If you are driving from NJ and rather have things a little more guaranteed, I would wait a couple more weeks.

Those are just my thoughts. I have been spot on at times but also dead wrong at other times.

I hope that was somewhat helpful, and if you do drive up, I hope you have a great time! The White Mountains are a beautiful place to spend time in no matter what!

markmythoughts
11-15-2012, 08:45 PM
Thanks leaf. That is really helpful. We are up for an adventure so we'll give it a run. As long as we don't need snorkel gear, I think we'll have fun. Thanks for sharing the local beta with us far-aways.

leaf
11-15-2012, 08:50 PM
Anytime! And feel free to ask away. Glad you are up for an adventure. That's what ice climbing is all about, in my opinion.

zrocklimer
11-16-2012, 12:30 PM
My buddy and went up to Pinnacle yesterday 11/15, it was in very poor condition, super thin with ice breaking off by itself from above (Lots of water), you could see where the ice was melting away from the rock, undercutting itself, with the help from water. We climbed up to the 1st big bulge on the first pitch and turned around because it was getting worse the higher we got. Looks like it will need a few more COLD nights to freeze back up.

markmythoughts
11-16-2012, 01:13 PM
Thanks zrocklimer. Looks like we may have a parking lot dilemma, as we are about to embark (or not...)

zrocklimer
11-16-2012, 01:21 PM
good luck, worst case you get a nice hike in today!

markmythoughts
11-16-2012, 01:23 PM
so the weather for Franconia looks much better. It is more likely that there could be colder temps and thus better ice along Franconia?

markmythoughts
11-16-2012, 02:53 PM
To new river gorge we go. Another time north landers. Thanks for the mileage saving assistance-

RycoVT
11-17-2012, 12:06 PM
I Love how this thread reads! Great beta by Leaf and i love the flexibility in planning for your road trip! Enjoy that dry southern rock!

Jacon
11-17-2012, 02:06 PM
Pinnacle was a climbable waterfall yesterday. We got a very late start because my buddy drove up from CT, and didn't actually start climbing until about 3 PM. As it turned out - that was OK. Plenty of ice all the way up - we didn't get soaked, but the ice isn't covering the water yet. It's possible to stay to either side and climb ice (and only a little rock). You have to cross the flow a few times. At the top, on the right, was a good pitch of ice. Pictures (of the first pitch, before it got dark) to come.

mountains62
11-18-2012, 04:01 PM
Well we went up yesterday with the plan to climb rock or ice. After getting to Pinkham and seeing bare rock on the entire eastern and northern aspects of the ravine we opted to leave the tools in the car. We decided to climb the Buttress in mountain boots and were well rewarded. The three other parties in the ravine decided they HAD to climb the gully (in the shade, line up at the base, unbonded falling ice, and cold) while we decided to climb the buttress (sunny, no other parties, dry rock, and warm). Felt like we made a prudent decision. Odell's was 'in,' though the bushwack to the top looked heinous. If you're going up in the next few days, take rock shoes...you'll be happy you did! The Garden was a delight on Saturday. No wind, temps close to 50 and blissful sun. What a great place!

lukecushman
11-18-2012, 06:22 PM
We climbed Pinnacle buttress last Monday in our ice boots. If you can do it in the cold, I would recommend wearing approach shoes, even if you're planning on climbing ice. If you end up on rock, you'll be happy, if you end up on ice, you'll still be happy because you won't have to hike down that summer trail in your boots. We used this method yesterday in Maine, managed to get on quite a bit of ice, and at the end of the day our shoulders hurt less from carrying the boots than our feet would have from wearing them!

MaxSuffering
11-19-2012, 07:30 AM
Hey Mountains62, as one of the guys who just HAD to climb Pinnacle on Saturday I'm glad you had fun on Pinnacle Buttress but have to ask why so quick to run home and post a report shitting on what others did? For the record and not wanting to start another thread Pinnacle was climbable but not what most would call "in." Ice was bonded just fine and I saw no naturally falling ice in Pinnacle Gully (there was a HUGE block sent down by an amazingly rude soloist who didn't even look back to see if he'd killed any of the people he climbed over, but that's another story). The other six people in the gully had a great time. As for "cold," er... come back in February.

I'd advise people to make their own decisions... but of I was going to put on rock shoes this week I'd stick to the Valley. (Hint: t-shirts at Humphreys yesterday.)

cms829
11-20-2012, 05:01 PM
I'll second that as one of the other parties that climbed pinnacle on saturday, and late in the day at that. Was it terrific? nope. But damn it felt great to get on the ice and sink some screws. I got wet but it was totally worth it. Plenty of good ice on her and didnt knock anything off. If i wanted to climb rock I would of went to cathedral. Im sure it was nice and warm down there.

If your looking for mid season conditions....then I would give it a couple cold weeks.