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kjmurphy
01-10-2012, 12:52 PM
I broke the second one rappeling weeping winds on Saturday getting caught on some scrub. The first one using a hip belay on Tocllaraju this past summer. I used the Petzl clippers for years with out issue and biners before that. Its not a good thing to be chasing screws, tools etc. The plastic snaps at well below the point I think it should, period.

Three years ago I bought a $20 back up BD head lamp, just throwing my pack on the ground shattered it. EMS took it back no questions asked and gave me a Petzl (no issues since).

I'll defend BD all day long on the China thing but when they get it wrong...

KJM

RAH
01-10-2012, 06:15 PM
I have had the exact same experience. My Petzel ice clippers take a beating and do not break. I have had BD ones break several times.

mainefinn
01-11-2012, 08:33 AM
I switched as well awhile back after our group seemed to break them all within a month of each other.

Extrablue
01-11-2012, 10:26 AM
The old black ones? or the gray ones with the little horn on top?

kjmurphy
01-11-2012, 12:01 PM
The new grey ones.

brownie710
01-11-2012, 07:16 PM
I've got two of the gray ones and I also have a petzl one. I've never had a problem with any of them except the slight shift of the BD's. Unfortunatley the petzel's don't seem to be as comfortable although they do feel a bit beefier. On another note, KJMurphy, what were all of the climbs like out at pitchoff looking like (weeping winds, arm & hammer,etc.) I'd be grateful to know.
brownie

kjmurphy
01-11-2012, 10:37 PM
I was climbing there Saturday, very crowded and spring like conditions (snow covered rotten ice). All climbs take screws that I saw. Central pillar was by far the best. Go to Chapel pond and head up Alpine Dreams past PE wall look right, you won't be sorry, many options no crowds.

brownie710
01-12-2012, 06:09 AM
Thanks a bunch for the info, I imagined it was a far cry from the usual dependable ice. I'm thinking we'll head to a backcountry route instead. Stay safe.
brownie

jakekirk
01-12-2012, 12:43 PM
I agree that the Petzl clippers are better. I broke a few of the BD ones getting them stuck in brush. I have since retired them and use all Petzl (on a BD Xenos harness). I did weeping winds on Sunday. I would say it was in pretty good shape. The center of is was nice and fat. I don't think you will have any problem protecting it. I wanted to do Screw and Climbaxe, but it looked thin from the pond and we never got a closer look. We had the climb to our selves, there were other parties on the various routes, but I don't think anything really was crowded.

brownie710
01-12-2012, 02:15 PM
hmmm, now I'm torn. I'd image less traffic on a Friday anyway. We'll see what happens. thanks Jake
I also have to say I'd only use the petzl clippers but I don't have the sleeves on my harness so I have to have them ride inside the belt which puts an uncomfortable pressure point at belays or rapping. such is life and that's why I still use the BD's

Cliff Destructo!
01-13-2012, 02:00 PM
Brownie

Clip the biner to your gear loop then put the rubber strap on the biner and slide it back to the stem. Next pull the strap forward towards the gate. Open the gate and slide the strap or rubber washer up the gate to the top of the biner and the same with the washer or rubber section that is on the stem.

This makes a very nice tight fit on your gear loop and the the clipper or rubber strap is never on the inside of your harness. It also has the biners/ clipper hang a bit farther off your harness making it easier to see the screws.

Auto-X Fil
01-16-2012, 10:57 AM
I have broken a Petzl clipper. I don't see the plastic snapping on them, but the wire isn't held in by anything, so if it's twisted it can pop right out. I lost several screws on Shoestring a couple years ago as a result.

I currently use BD OvalWire biners, held onto my gear loop with an O-ring (like Cliff describes). Totally bomber, and nearly as easy to use as any of the clippers.

brownie710
01-18-2012, 09:55 AM
thanks destructo, I never thought of attaching directly to my loops. Will probably save a little bit of strain peeking behind me to get my screws.
brownie

zwebber
02-02-2012, 06:26 AM
Use the old, extremely large BD biners with the fin on the back. They work great, but are probably difficult to find.

Flamingo
02-02-2012, 07:49 AM
Big blue Omega Pacific Five-O wiregates work very well too - rack about 6 screws comfortably. Cold and plastic never seemed like a good combo to me.

If you're the follower, just keep a screw racked to keep it from flopping around while you try to clip pro onto it.

joeclimb
02-01-2013, 08:40 AM
One word of advice regardless of which you use. When rapping, never clip tools to them. After catching a tool in a bush and ripping that and 4 screws off years ago, I clip my tools to biners on my harness. Haven't had a problem since.