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dwhenline
01-25-2010, 06:09 AM
Matt Hosmer and myself went into wallface to climb diagonal this past weekend. I had done it once before and this time we had the approach down abit better. The approach is about a three hour affair using snow shoes. After boiling up, I headed up the first pitch of the climb, actually to the right of the summer first pitch. It was mostly a 5.3 scramble to set a belay. The second pitch climbed a short vertical WI3 step that was debonded from the rock, protectable with one screw and a slung curtain. This gains the ramp. The ramp is takend as two pitches which are pretty straight forward and WI3, 5.3 rock. There is danger of falling ice from above (as we found out) and it is best to really hug the wall. The belayed is moved and the last two pitches next. The 5th pitch was a 5.7 chimmney, the start was the hardest and the chimmney straight forward. No aid needed. Last pitch is the crux. I took 15 foot whipper having peeled off with my tools. Lost one ice tool. Finished the pitch and rapped down. Actually found my tool on a ledge at the top of the ramp. Four raps gets you to the bottom if you don't follow the ramp.
Getting out takes about as long as getting in.
We took 15 hours round trip. Could probably be done in 12 if you are decently fast on the approach. I brought a full rack to #3 and 6 screws. I only used one screw, so I think you could get away with bringing 3. Ten runners should suffice. We brought a jet boil and made water instead of packing it in. The second pitch was technically easy but the most dangerous because of the ice and lack of protection.
Enjoy. Wall face is great in the winter. Really one of the best outings in the daks

AOC
01-25-2010, 07:52 AM
Nice going! Got any photos to post?

dwhenline
01-25-2010, 08:11 AM
Sorry no photos. I don't usually bring a camera, although I should. It was a beautifully sunny day saturday, and the experience was really picture perfect
don
I did think of using my camera phone, maybe I should have