View Full Version : Adirondacks

01-19-2010, 11:32 AM
Power Play: first 45m not much ice any more (poor/no protection), next pitch direct thin and brittle (took the right ramp), exit (last 10m) good.
Patey's Gully. No ice for the traverse and not much on the shoulder. Did not do it.
Big Brother. Column does not touch the ground.
Little brother. Very thin ice.
This part of Ch.Pond does not look too good except of course Chouinard's and Chouinard's right.
Pooke OM: Waterfall. Good ice, although thin on the left.
PT was looking still feasible. Exposed though.
Temperature quite mild. Not sure how it is going to turn out in the coming days.

01-19-2010, 12:34 PM
Romantic Date on the First Brother is in but not worth the hike. This climb is in Blue Lines. It reminds me of the first pitch of Emerald City without the beautiful second pitch. In other words, it's a brushy low-angle slab.

01-19-2010, 01:31 PM
Yep. Just a little steep at the start, and then a slab. But it was fun on that Valentine's Day...getting to it was more of an adventure than the climb itself. For those that like to explore, I think there is a little more ice in there to find, but I haven't been back.


01-19-2010, 07:32 PM
ahh the romance...I love Tom DuBois

01-20-2010, 05:32 AM
Actually, Ellen was absolutely freezing on that climb that day, so it was only romantic in retrospect... <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/smile.gif

01-20-2010, 11:44 AM
Tom, is Bouquet Canyon worth the ski or snowshoe in?

01-20-2010, 12:14 PM
Depends on your point of view. It's a long walk, probably on unbroken path, and there's a little new blowdown to contend with on the path along the river. Climbing is S facing, hard to tell if it will be in. If it is in, there are some interesting lines up to maybe 60 feet high, potential for mixed and overhangs.

If I was going out to ice climb, it would not be worth the walk. But if I was going out to walk through the canyon and check it out, and take a look at the rock routes, etc., it would be worth it to bring the tools, in case the ice was good.

I hope that helps.


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01-20-2010, 07:31 PM
Chapel pond slab was good on Monday - a little thin on the first pitch or two, stay right or avoid it by staying far left on the snow until it fattens up higher.

01-21-2010, 08:31 PM
Thanks Tom


01-28-2010, 09:31 PM
Was up in the Canyon today. Things have dried out nicely, and all the major routes are still in fat. However, The first pitch of Chouinards looks as if it exploded from water pressure. Large chunks of ice out on the lake, and nothing left at the bottom of the route. Powerplay looks like it took a big hit too. The lake right now has large sections of open water and will need several days to make unrestricted travel safe again. Some really cool seeps on the 5.10 wall across from Positive reinforcement. If the thicken up just a little someone with big guns could have a lot of fun.


02-02-2010, 10:15 AM
Does anyone know anything about a bridge out in the area? It will be my first time down there in two weeks, was hoping to get some directions from Kingston On. Canada. I was also hoping to find out the weather in the area, what is the nearest town so i can cheack the weather online?

02-02-2010, 10:59 AM
Bridge out won't affect you unless you want to go . Weather depends slightly on where you plan to climb - were you looking for something more than what is linked to on this website? As for directions, don't know what is quickest - probably taking rte 3 across the park? Or maybe coming via Potsdam?

02-02-2010, 11:11 AM
Google Maps directions from Kingston, ON to Keene Valley, NY
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&amp;source=s_d&amp;saddr=kingston,+on&amp;daddr=keene +valley,+ny&amp;hl=en&amp;geocode=FaHqogIdY_5w-ympjkB0BqvSTDHq2dYVd0mldg%3BFUxIogIdjB2a-yklOSjrdy3LTDEeQpBLQLfxEg&amp;mra=ls&amp;sll=44.471215,-75.13891&amp;sspn=2.998546,4.938354&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;z=8

02-02-2010, 11:13 AM
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&amp;sour...ie=UTF8&amp;z=8 (http://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&amp;source=s_d&amp;saddr=kingston,+on&amp;daddr=keene +valley,+ny&amp;hl=en&amp;geocode=FaHqogIdY_5w-ympjkB0BqvSTDHq2dYVd0mldg%3BFUxIogIdjB2a-yklOSjrdy3LTDEeQpBLQLfxEg&amp;mra=ls&amp;sll=44.471215,-75.13891&amp;sspn=2.998546,4.938354&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;z=8)

02-02-2010, 05:58 PM
you guys are the best, thanks a million, i'll be on chapel pond slab or empress weekend after next, hopefully see one of you folks down in there. my second trip tp the states will rival red river for sure. maybe i'll post again in a week to check the conditions of the slab

thanks again guys,

02-02-2010, 06:17 PM
empress is *part* of chapel pond slab

02-02-2010, 07:21 PM
I believe he meant Emperor Slab, which is super thin (As of 2/2) But I guess it always is. His Highness looked so-so today.

02-05-2010, 09:29 AM
anyone been up tp marcy lately, how is that route on the apron?

02-05-2010, 02:30 PM
BAck to Mt Marct, the south face i hear its like NEI 4-, is that taking into account the 800' of vertical? of is it more like a WI 4-. I can lead WI 3+, but not sure if i can do 800' in a day. any ideas about the approach?

02-05-2010, 05:59 PM
OHW: not sure about the south face but what I think you might be talking about is Agartha in Panther Gorge. This route is probably in the 4- realm, only slightly over 600' and an excellent route in an amazing location. I think the 4- grade is based on the two steeper sections and not on any sort of remoteness/protectablity/seriousness factors (I think we have a whole seperate forum for that discussing that sort of thing now). However the length of the route doesn't translate to the length of the day when you factor in a nearly four hour approach, the bushwack back to the range trail and the hike out. If you're not sure about climbing this much ice roadside you probably don't want to make the hike to climb in Panther Gorge. That being said, it's certainly a route to aspire to, possibly one of the finest winter days I've had in the Adirodacks.

02-06-2010, 06:05 AM
ahwww shucks Max i thought we had the finest day out together...

02-09-2010, 12:17 PM
Anyone been up to the north face of pitchoff?

02-09-2010, 01:48 PM
Unless it hits 80 deg and starts raining heavily, most stuff at NFOP will be fat for some time.