View Full Version : Smuggs

01-03-2010, 06:44 PM
Was there on Sat and things were looking good. I was alone so only did ENT and Jeffs. ENT was great, Jeffs had a lot of hollow with water running underneath.

The snow was huge and there is some true avy potential up there now. The rain crust with the new snow and windload made things sketchy. This thread has pics of the most serious slides I've ever seen in VT taking off on the north side of the notch (skiers who skinned up spruce and came down in the woods):

Real crowns, not point release.

01-04-2010, 03:39 AM
The usual gullies are in but areas of dangerous snowload. I seriously advise against going up into Hidden Gully or below Blind Fate and B.I.B. Easy gully is wind-scoured but the slide path getting up there below Grand Confusion may be sketchy with snowload. A's Anguish is in, Dominatrix looks to be in or nearly there. Grand Illusion and Poster Child are in. Ragnarock is boney looking. Fat ice on the guides wall along the road. Plenty of ice at the Workout Wall too.

01-04-2010, 09:48 AM
Was up Hidden Gully on Fri 1/1 and the snow was stable and the climb had a great alpine feel. We climbed 4 pitches of snow/ice taking the right hand line at the 2nd snowfield (p3). This line ended so we moved left for p4 and into the gully above the middle fork below. Conditions have probably changed up there with the new snow however, be careful...

01-06-2010, 12:47 PM
This is wild! We were in the Notch on Saturday 1/2. Had to modify our plans of climbing Blue Room and abouts after we heard a loud rumble on Sterling side of the Notch.

01-20-2010, 02:26 PM
Any word on the conditions of the Grand Illusion or other climbs in that area?

01-22-2010, 01:15 PM
The climbs in EZ gully seem really thin for this time of year, including GI. Three sheets is non-existent, Poster Child is thin but doable, and GI is also thin/doable. Dominatrix is wicked thin. The French Tickler pillar is fully formed, waiting for the slightest touch of a pick to knock it down. Other climbs in the notch are in great shape, Jeff slide, Workout wall, and Blind Fate are in fat.

01-22-2010, 02:26 PM
Has Ragnarock been done recently and has its second pitch some ice on it and the third enough to traverse ? ...
well, maybe a dumb question ...


Broken Spectre
01-22-2010, 02:42 PM
Yes I believe Ragna has been done. It is very thin on the 2nd and 3rd pitches (no column finish). You have to go way right to get on the fat ice right now. Basically any high flow climbs (ie; Blue Ice bulge, Jeff Slide, Blue Room) are in really fat and anything that is a drip drip kind of flow is thin to non-existent (ie; three sheets, Dominatrix, Tri Scam, Rustinator).

The bulge on Terrortory is might big right now. Did it yesterday morning and it was Brittle...

01-24-2010, 07:07 AM
was anybody around when the pillars came off from the Playground? A few big chunks made it almost to the road. must have been pretty exciting...

We hiked right below Ragna yesterday and I have a shot I can post if I get motivated. it looks pretty baked and thin down low and almost non existent in the middle. The sun was full on it and bits were falling off on the regular. Upper looked doable out right.

01-24-2010, 07:39 AM
Grand Illusion was in fine but thin shape on Sat. The thin part is short and still screw-protectable. There is a nice 50 foot slot at the top of the climb, beyond the rappel slung block, hard thin overhanging top-off but well protected with a screw in the very top of a thin pillar. This should be the proper finish to this climb, the hardest moves at the top. Duoble rope rap gets you down below the wedged chockstone belay/ rap station.

Rime all over Dom, Scream Queen and other routes making it hard to see if they were safe enough.

01-25-2010, 02:06 AM
Jeff's and Ent were fine today. Jeff's was real wet up top pulling the bulge on the far right (pouring water, actually). The large flat ramp in the middle was a mixture of rain crust on top of loose powder - it wasn't the crux, but definitely the scariest section the climb.

01-25-2010, 07:05 AM
Thanks Br. Sp and Surfer bill for these infos.
Did R. last year and the 2nd pitch had no more than 15 feet of ice ... but it can always be worse ! Might go this WE ... Surf. Bill will you post any photos ?

01-25-2010, 07:27 AM
Climbed part of Grand Confusion (I think...next climb right of EZ Gully & Grand Illusion?) on 1/19. The notch where the water pours over had formed a large brittle icicled blob - maybe all this rain will soften things up...

01-27-2010, 07:32 AM
Any update on the incoming WE Smuggler's notch conditions ? Has it rained in Smuggler's notch ... State of Ragnarock and Elephant's gully other routes ?

03-06-2010, 03:11 PM
Surprise! Lots of ice to climb. It stayed cold despite the sun. Parties on Origin of Intelligence and Watership Down and others.
Cloak & Dagger looked doable via the rising traverse. Plenty to climb safely!

03-08-2010, 01:47 PM
ENT- obviously fine
Jeff Slide - Climbable, protecting takes some work
Heard about large chunks coming off Ragnarock and South Wall (no big suprise)

Broken Spectre
03-15-2010, 01:38 PM
Flying in from Dallas for some ice! Wondering how conditions are?


03-15-2010, 02:54 PM
I am wondering the same, anyone climb up here this past weekend? Looking to get up there Thursday so scrounge the last bit of ice I can!

03-15-2010, 05:41 PM
I climbed Blue Ice Bulge today. It is still in good condition and taking good screws (depends on the line one takes). Climbed TerrorTory last Friday and it is in great shape and probably will be for a little while. From the road Hidden Gully, Jeff Slide, Driving Force, Workout Wall still look good, but it is really impossible to say tell their actual condition b/c I didn't climb them.

03-15-2010, 08:04 PM

Thanks for the beta, makes me feel a little better

03-19-2010, 02:56 PM
Climbed Driving Force (left side) this afternoon. The left side is in reasonable shape and took good screws. It was somewhat wet and the ice had some slush on it (not all the way). The top has some water running behind it (with a groove cut into the ice), but it should be ok for a little while.

03-20-2010, 04:01 PM
In the &quot; hope triumphs over experience&quot; category, I went with two friends up to Blue Ice Bulge to get one last shot. Plenty of ice , but unless you like a faceful of slushpuppy from the spray of each ax swing, don't bother. Plenty of ice- but under six inches of slush. At least it was fun listening to everything crashing down around us that was in the sun.

03-22-2010, 12:38 AM
there is definitely still plenty to climb in the Notch - E-Head, Terrortory are in good shape, sounds like BIB was also fine, Grand Confusion is in with a steep finish. Temps return to well below freezing towards the weekend, looks like we'll get an extension on the season.