View Full Version : Bolton Quarry

12-30-2009, 01:46 PM
Lower tier pillars are all fat, lots of water still flowing.

Upper tier main flow looks good, maybe a bit candled and drippy. The big pillar back to the left is still a river on the top half. Hard to say, it was dark out when I hiked in. Will upload a few night shots I got before my mini tripod snapped in the cold.

Road was plowed, with room for 4-5 cars up in the quarry, which was a surprise. Not sure if Crag VT is paying for the plow service, or if the local guy is just being nice. Regardless of the plow job, I would not attempt to drive up to park without good winter tires, AWD and plenty of clearance.

Broken Spectre
01-01-2010, 05:54 AM
Crag is not paying for parking so do not count on the road being plowed. Review other parking options beforehand and do not park anywhere along Green Mtn. drive with the exception of the waitsfield telecom pullout. The other parking option is the Smiley school back toward Bolton on the north side of Rte2. You can walk from there. Think of it as a good warm up.

Broken Spectre
01-01-2010, 05:55 AM
I should say "not paying for plowing" not "parking"....

01-03-2010, 07:00 PM
Me and my buddy were there on 01/01/10. Conditions were building and with the snow and temps things should be getting pretty good.The parking lot was good( we got my buddies Scion with snow tires in no problem), but after snow and no plowing this was probably the last day to get in without something burly.I'll put up a video of us messing around at the end of the day tonight. I'm a newbie and it was the first day off the couch with rotting ice so, be gentle.

01-09-2010, 04:36 PM
Climbed today. Road up was plowed all the way into the qaurry. My buddy and I are looking for TR beta for the upper quarry walls. Lower walls only had one solid route. Middle of the South-western wall had a solid 30' pillar. Upper quarry had some solid looking ice, though we have no context to go off of from rock route descriptions. Any beta out there?

CF Nubbler
01-11-2010, 07:20 AM
What kind of beta are you looking for? There's a bunch of ice in the main quarry. It's all fairly steep. Some of it is really steep. Some of it is reall, really steep. Pick a line and climb it.



PS: In fairness, one piece of beta that might prove useful is that two of the pillars that end in the middle of nowhere have bolted anchors at the top. Lead up em', clip-clip, and down you go.

01-11-2010, 10:42 AM
Here is what I know, hope it is helpfull

On the top deck if you plan to climb the Main Flow it requires typical length, 5 to 20 20 feet, cordelette and maybe some slings for an anchor off the trees. The main flow is the first obvious ice flow you see when you walk up from the parking area. To setup your TR you need to follow the foot path to the left of the top deck, it will go up and around and be rather steep. A 60 meter can TR it, may be a bit of rope stretcher depending on how the ice has formed at the base. The pillar can take a life of it's own so make sure to wear eye protection, both you and your belay should also wear head protection, even during a solid cold snap I have seen rather large pieces of ice come off the pillar. There will be a graveyard of fallen ice at the base to remind you to wear you eye and head protection

As posted already the two flows that stop in the middle of nowhere need to be lead to the chains. No way to TR it without a lead climber. To the left of the bolted anchor climbs another flow can be TR'd typically that flow forms all the way to the top. Again you need to walk around the left of the top deck. However to TR that flow you need some serious webbing or a long static line to get your anchor over the edge. It can be kind of scary walking over to the top of that flow so be carefull. I think there are some chains at the top but they will be buried under ice and I would not suggest trying to get to them. The Route is a sport route during rock season and not really setup for top side TR access.

AS far as climbing on the bottom, I have seen a lot of TR setups, most require some really long static lines or webbing. I have also seen anchors built totally with screws, not my first choice.For quarry climbing I bought a 50 Meter piece of webbing to get all the way back to the trees, I have seen the UVM outing club use a 50 Meter static line. Without a lead climber you will end up with some elaborate anchor system unless you climb the main flow but that can be a long walk and the ice can be a bit interesting.

Hope that makes sense, good luck.

02-13-2010, 03:45 AM
anyone been up there lately? Just wanted to head out for a quick study break and hoping things are holding up. Ice along the highways is totally rotten so I thought I'd ask before making the drive.


02-14-2010, 10:00 AM
I have not been in there lately, but my educated guess from living nearby says it is probably still in good shape, and still growing given recent temps and some sunny days. The big free-hanger by the Bolton potholes finally touched down recently, and it has a similar aspect and elevation. (somebody should go climb that BTW, I don't think it gets done that often)

02-15-2010, 03:27 PM
hit the column across from the potholes yesterday
it has touched down and is super solid
got pretty wet on the front side, but the back side and upper portions are much drier
didn't look like it has seen much traffic at all...
does this small area have a name???

03-07-2011, 09:09 AM
anyone looking to climb Bolton tomorrow? if so give me a call 832-265-0376