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smike
12-24-2009, 07:47 AM
The creature that has been shaping up just to the right of the Main Flow went down on 12-23. New Route? Could be, I've not seen it come in in 8+ years,(even checked photos as far back as 2002) but its sure possible its been climbed years ago before. Griz and I approached on the P1 and P2 of the main flow. P2 of the main flow is in spicy on left, wet on the right side. Traversed over on the huge ledge system only about 20 yards to a nice belay just to the right of the new flow. Griz made a great lead up past the crux pillar (wrist size at the base) for a near 70 meter pitch. It also had an easier option (no pro) just to the left. Funky hollow ice found in a few spots. Rap from big tree 20' to the left back down to the top of P2 of the Main Flow.

P3 of The Main Flow btw is incredibly wet, and lose up top. (not ready). Although Banana is looking great! (hardly comes in anymore)

The boys up north are having a rough start, but from what I've seen so far down here, things could be stellar in a few weeks!

smike
12-24-2009, 07:51 AM
Pics:

http://neice.com/photopost/data/512/medium/R0015381.jpg

http://neice.com/photopost/data/512/medium/R0015391.jpg

stpshaud
12-24-2009, 07:57 AM
This route used to come in more regularly 25-30 years ago or so. The homes built at the top a while back seem to have changed the flow of water. Sorry to tell you that it is not a first ascent.

smike
12-24-2009, 09:21 AM
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: stpshaud</div><div class="ubbcode-body">This route used to come in more regularly 25-30 years ago or so. The homes built at the top a while back seem to have changed the flow of water. Sorry to tell you that it is not a first ascent. </div></div>

Awesome, as we suspected. I was hoping some of the previous climbers would chime in. Certainly a nice route, but fickle to say the least. I think the home owner left his garden hose running this year. I feel another 2005 season coming on with rarely seen creatures coming in to shape.

AEM
12-24-2009, 01:21 PM
Smike and Griz,

Pretty sweet up there! I just led this line this morning, and was wondering whose tracks I kept seeing! I traversed over from the base of the main flow column to the thin ice to start. I did not get on that wrist sized column (with a crack at the bottom)!!!. Was able to get gear (minimal) on the left and traverse out onto the almost free hanger. Will post a pic shortly. Any clue of the name of this line? pretty sweet and good fun!

I broke into 4 pitches, starting at the base of main flow.

Alex

smike
12-25-2009, 07:46 AM
Awesome job Alex! So you did it ground up? We opted for the Main flow for the first section, but looked like that would have gone as well.

AEM
12-25-2009, 03:32 PM
Thanks Smike, this was a solid lead for me for sure.

I actually traversed over from the base of the Main Flow column. I have been looking forward to climbing main flow for a number of years and thought that it would go yesterday. Got halfway up the column with 2 screws in and decided that the top out was too wet/thin. I down climbed, licked my wounds and started looking around.... just to the right was the other line, thin but sweet. After rapping the route, I don't think that I missed much besides some low angle steps and 8' section where most of the ice was on a tree growing out of the route!! The gear was pretty thin on the crux mixed section, but I was able to get really good placements that kept luring me upwards. The ice above that section was no gimme either!

griz
12-26-2009, 07:51 AM
It has been confirmed, the route is indeed a new line as it has never formed to th eground and thus been lead ground-up. &quot;Hommieland Security&quot;: Grade II WI4+/5- R+ M2b/c 400' was led on Dec 23 by yours truly and Smike, via the direct almost free-hanging pillar/curtain. DO not confuse this with the Banana route located just 30' right. After much research into archive pictures dating back over 20yrs ago, this line has never fully formed up high and no pictures point to the full formation to the ground. A nice addition to the Narrows. Let it be noted that a variation was led that evening via healdlamp called &quot;Get your Bail-Out&quot; WI4, which takes the series of awkard ledges to the left of the free-hanger crux, FA Brint Price! Aint it good to be back with the hommies again!

K2JET
12-26-2009, 08:34 AM
Nice !
Congrats......

SK ---

AEM
12-26-2009, 12:17 PM
So it looks like a ground up FA of this line is still up for grabs, huh? Lets hope the temps drop again soon!

mrdeadpt
12-27-2009, 07:50 AM
Griz,

Congratulations on the FA. I'm sorry, but I had my doubts that the line had ever formed before and was going to dispute the previous post that talked about it forming 25-30 years ago. Glad you were able to research it and confirm your FA.

Mr. D

mrdeadpt
12-27-2009, 11:33 AM
Just wanted to add that I was just perusing Smike's photo of the crux pillar and thinking, &quot;An impressive piece of work.&quot; Can't help wonder: Was the crux led leashless? Also, this was really unclear from the posts: Did anyone climb the line entire from the bottom of the cliff?

firemantim
12-27-2009, 10:13 PM
I had the pleasure of watching the fa from the ground. Had I been stronger I could have part of it! Oh well, too early for me this year. I finally posted a few pics of Griz pulling the crux pillar. It was some impressive climbing.

dreilley
12-28-2009, 09:14 AM
Smike, Griz,
Great job!
I was bashing around a bit last Thursday after not climbing for a long time! Need to get back into it again. Are you guys going to the Mountain Festival in the 'Dacks this year? I might be up there for work.