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View Full Version : BD turbo ice screw, Handle???



ChristianG
12-08-2004, 03:49 AM
Hi

Iím looking to buy ice screw and I have a tight budgetÖ I was looking at the black diamond turbo ice screw and I was wondering if the little handle really worth the case for the 20$ (can) more per screw.

Could you give me some advice on that please.

Thanks for your help.

chrix
12-08-2004, 03:55 AM
IMO: "YES".
I use up a lot less energy while placing these, and I have less trouble with bigger gloves / mittens on. I was just thinking to myself yesterday how I want to get a couple more of these things, and replace my old screw /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

ThomasJCook
12-08-2004, 04:20 AM
The Omega Pacific screws are nearly identical to the BD turbo express for a couple $ less. The only difference is that the spinning handle does not fold down so they are a little more cumbersome to rack but with one per biner the racking issue is not really a problem.

I am not sure what the policy is regarding retail postings but I don't work for Mountain Gear I am just a satisfied customer. They currently have the some cosmetic seconds OP screws with knobs for $25 per screw if you buy 4. Free shipping too! I just got four for $100 and my partner got 2 BD turbo express for just a couple dollars less. We placed them side by side and we could not tell the difference.

Good Luck-
TJC

http://www.mgear.com/pages/product/product.asp/item/248502/level3_id/0/level1_id/0/level2_id/0

Broken Spectre
12-08-2004, 04:42 AM
Beware!! There is a big difference between omegas and Bd's. I used to climb with a whole rack of omegas and once I switched over to BD express, I climbed about a grade harder since I could get screws in WAY faster. Something about the thread slope on the Omegas makes them VERY difficult to start in brittle ice conditions. They just fracture the ice instead of biting.

Broken Spectre
12-08-2004, 04:43 AM
Additionally, the coffee grider knob on the omegas is held in place with a nut, which will eventually fall off and have to be replaced. THe BD screw is welded or press fit so it can't come off.

scottie_c
12-08-2004, 05:44 AM
OP screws are cheaper for a reason

Crag
12-08-2004, 06:01 AM
Get some Snargs if you can. Probably can pick some up for free after a little dumpster diving. After a season climbing with these puppies you'll be leading M10 & WI6. Best training for forearm strength. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

ChristianG
12-08-2004, 07:13 AM
Thanks for your advice guys.
I think Iíll try to squeeze up my budget in order to by the BD turbo express. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

keenewannabe
12-08-2004, 07:51 AM
Keep an eye on ebay. I got them for 40 $ buy it now. I grabbed 2 from some guy out in Utah. Great Deal

http://search.ebay.com/ice-screw_W0QQsokeywordredirectZ1QQfromZR8

There are 2 up there now 16cm and 19cm for 45 buy it now. Also less then 8 hrs left on the auction

tfwo
12-08-2004, 12:24 PM
[ QUOTE ]
Hi

Iím looking to buy ice screw and I have a tight budgetÖ I was looking at the black diamond turbo ice screw and I was wondering if the little handle really worth the case for the 20$ (can) more per screw.

Could you give me some advice on that please.

Thanks for your help.

[/ QUOTE ]

Depends what yer leading. 1-3 ,no it is not worth it.3+ and up,most definetly.

eric
12-08-2004, 12:37 PM
..also no reason you can't mix in a couple of the BD screws without the handles to save some money. I use these when I am on a good stance and dont' need to fire in a screw in a hurry. ( i.e. anchors)

Schandy
12-08-2004, 01:50 PM
I think the op's got a tad more expensive this year. I don't think they are worth the increse. If I needed screws I would jump at the mgear deal. Last years model was great, and in my opinion BETTER than the BDs. Yes I came out and said it, I like them better. No folding handle to fuck with, just grab it off an ice clipper and send it home. The grivels are still the best, so I use OPs when I have a stance and then have a few grivels for the more pressing situations.

perswig
12-08-2004, 02:23 PM
If you're climbing at 3+, might be good to buy 3-4 turbo express or grivel 360s for the sketched-out, need it NOW placements and like Ric said, use the old bd or omegas w/o handles (cheap as closeouts at mgear or northern mtn supply)for anchors and good stance placements. Might save enough money for a screamer or 2 as well?

wanderer
12-09-2004, 01:56 PM
Yea, Snargs... Love those, as long as I'm drivin' and not cleanin' em...

Sidestroke
12-10-2004, 06:41 AM
Cheap ice screws are great!! ...and they make a pleasant tinkling noise as they follow you to the ground!

NC22
12-10-2004, 11:38 AM
Stay away from any rigid L shaped hangers!
In an experiment we had here at feathered friendís rep day, with Petzl, Grivel and other presented, we conducted ice screws placement test the result was unanimous. Long rigid handle creates the most torque on the starter-hole, and therefore tends to fracture and shedder the first five centimeter of the ice (the outer surface). Also small leveler the (coffee grinder handle) creates more torque (up and down movement) on the placemet therefore enlarging it and creating looser placement when compare with larger pivoting handle like the sonicís and the 360ís
The worst of them were the BD and OP, because they have small leveler, and low rotation angle which caused an indirect driving force due to their long rigid handle. Second worst were the Petzl sonic, they preformed conciderbly better then the BD/OP because higher angle of rotation (the force is directed more directly to the screw itself), but still due to rigid handle they were still fracturing the ice too much. The best performer, with almost no fracture, were the Grivel 360 they were the most secure placement and with the cleanest hole as well as the fastest to go in.
Anyway just my two cents