View Full Version : Cathedral Mountain Guides Conditions Report - Cathedral and Crawford - Jan 23

01-23-2015, 05:15 AM
It is very similar to early spring conditions out there with very stable high pressure making for sunny days and night time temps in the single digits. In general, around the White Mountains, shady routes with a high volume of water feeding them are really fat. Sunny routes are no longer in the best of shape.

Goofers is in, but not as thick as it has been the last couple of years. The relatively easy lower section isn't thick enough for screws, but as it steepens there is plenty of ice for protection.
SuperGoofers looks pretty mean. I'd being rock gear for sure.
Diagonal is super fat! The column looks incredible.
Repentance I climbed it last week and definitely didn't destroy any crux pillar. Untii Sunday's rain there hadn't been any water running on it for about two weeks. As of two days ago the crux section was gushing and starting to form for the first time this year. If there is still water moving on it over the weekend it would be a shame to break the crux while it was still forming.
Remission The crux pillar up high is super fat and there is a good runnel of ice that could be used to gain the upper flow, although the first pitch traverse is still pretty thin. Not sure anyone has climbed it this year.
Thresher Slabs The lower slabs aren't really there, but folks have been climbing the upper pitches.
North End Looks good to go. The slab looks pretty fat and the pillars are looking good too.

Frankenstein can be summed up very quickly. Everything that is shady from the Amphitheater north is fat. The South face is done - although there is still plenty of ice hanging around, I wouldn't go near it.

Mt Willard
This great little mountain is in great shape. Not sure about the thickness of Cinema Gully, the rains may have helped but it still looks thin. No Great Madness this year so far, but most of the regular routes all look really good, especially on the East Face.

Bayard Russell
Cathedral Mountain Guides
Madison, NH