View Full Version : Franconia & Crawford Notch 12-27-2014

12-28-2014, 06:22 PM
Crawford Notch

In two days of rain and above freezing temperatures, I watch months of ice & snow disappear. For all you folks that were waiting for “the ice to be in” you missed a lot of good early season ice climbing. We were headed for a banner year! Everything was right, a good snow pack to insulate the ground, slow and steady ice building and plenty of water. Then this warm, rainy front came by and devastated the ice and snow. The biggest hit was down low, taking out most everything, but we hiked the Webster Cliff trail Saturday and if you went off trail you needed snow shoes. Still lots of snow above 4000’.

Many of the north and east facing climbs are still holding ice and should re-bond and build again soon. The tops of most climbs have running water and are detached. But by next weekend we should have some good ice to climb again. With the forecasted cold temps, short days and good water flow, we will be back in business soon.

Franconia Notch

The Black Dike is still hanging tough and should re-build soon. The Ace of Spades went from a good climb to not much at all. When I went by The Dike on Sunday it was in the fog, raining and 41 degrees. So some more damage was done after these photos from the day before. But the good news is that we will be in the single digits for the up coming nights and with all this water flowing, some things are going to go off.

~Doug Millen

12-28-2014, 07:30 PM
Looking for good news? Got none.. drove through Crawford notch today on my way to hike Mt. Pierce. It was raining throughout the notch. Rain didn't switch to snow until at least 1000 feet of elevation gain from the bottom of the Notch. Theres almost no snow left on Mt. Willard, and Willey's slide is almsot bare. Pray for some god damn cold...

12-28-2014, 08:43 PM
Pray for some god damn cold...

love it. i'll do a double dose.

12-29-2014, 09:22 AM
Any thoughts on whether Standard or other areas in Crawford Notch will be (ice) climbable by Wednesday (dec 31) with a couple days of really cold weather?

12-31-2014, 08:02 PM
Shoestring was fat today 12-31-14 good Neve between the bulges to give your calfs a break. Direct finish was fat but brittle and tricky @ the top.

01-06-2015, 10:38 AM
Did a quick jaunt up Standard yesterday (1/5/15). Lots of options in, including some parties on the left side. A bit of wet at the top, but that should be fine with the cold temps for the next few days. There was a big half-detached pillar up at the top left side for one of the pillar exits. Hopefully it will fill in and reattach.

Dropline looks like it's forming great, but definitely out for mortals. The Hanging Gardens area looks like a lot of really interesting things are forming up. Tons of big hangers, but not much touching down quite yet. Didn't get a close look at Dracula or Penguin, but there were people on them.

There were a TON of people at Frankenstein on Monday. At least two largish professionally guided groups, plus at least two other large college groups hanging around. One large group TRing two lines on Standard (though to their credit, they were pretty respectful of others around). Upper parking lot was basically full. If this is what Mondays are going to be like this year, I don't even want to think about weekends.

01-07-2015, 08:12 PM
I happened to climb at Frankenstein (Ampitheatre) on Monday. Conditions were thin, but many climbs were in. The upper portion of Smear was THIN, but not fragile - definitely climbable. Pegasus was in. Hobbit's at bottom was not in. Now in NY - but assume the conditions in the Notch are looking good.

01-12-2015, 05:25 PM
Frankenstein is definitely in. Hobbit is very fragile and thin at the top section, but doable if you don't have a strong need for viable protection at the crux. Standard is nice and fat in the center. The right and left variations are in, but thin in spots.

01-20-2015, 04:06 PM
Did Left Hand Money Wrench to Upper Hitchcock this morning (1/20). Seems like most stuff in the notch survived the rain and warm pretty well. Lots of running water all around.