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View Full Version : WitW, Cathedral, Frankenstein, Dike 3/1/14



Jacon
03-02-2014, 03:32 PM
Way: Baked and funky but still pretty fat and protectable. Nice approach trail.

Cathedral: Repentance is in tough conditions, with the second-pitch column missing and the rest of the pitch being quite thin and recessed. Remission's direct start is not in, and its column looks baked but goes fine.

Frankenstein: South face isn't there, though Fang is trying. Widow's Walk has not come back. Everything else is fat and blue except Dropline and Welcome. Welcome's first pitch isn't really there. Dropline is baked but actually probably about the easiest you'll ever find it, with lots of hooks and footholds all the way up, and still very protectable.

Black Dike: No ice on first or second pitch, except a tiny bit deep in the chimney at the top of the second pitch. Third pitch is in and pretty mellow at the moment. Can't recommend the Dike right now: the approach is heinous windslab over powder over scree we were actually kinda scared we might trigger a slab avalanche as we got near the base and the descent, which we reasoned couldn't possibly be worse than the approach, was far, far worse. The slab creates horrible one- and sometimes two-tiered postholing as deep as the waist, and it also prevents a good but-glissade. The slab is also murder on the shins.

mainefinn
03-02-2014, 10:17 PM
Lazy day out huh? Nice work, that is a lot of go juice.

tradman
03-02-2014, 10:38 PM
Good job guys!
I thought the P2 crux of Repentance was unprotectable 5+ today. I put too many stubbies in but none of them would have held a fall INMOP they all either hit air, cracked whatever litttle piece of ice was there or were in an existing screw hole. rest of the pitch was harder than I expected but super fun!

tradman
03-02-2014, 10:44 PM
Lots of big ice came down from Remission as it was being climbed today.

Jacon
03-02-2014, 11:02 PM
Thanks mainefinn.

Tradman, how do you feel about negative conditions reports? Dike and Repentance should be all yours for a few days at least....

tradman
03-03-2014, 01:10 AM
Actually I am glad I did not read your report before I went over there as I may not have made the drive. Repentance totally goes and protects well everywhere except right at the buisness @ the start of P2 Looks like you guys did the smart /safer thing and ran the1st two together. Tyson was pretty concerned the whole thing was going to come off and factor 2 on to the belay:)

Ps. I complement you and you take a dig at me... Nice.

Jacon
03-03-2014, 10:20 AM
Heh, sorry, it was meant to be a more teasing tone.

tradman
03-03-2014, 12:52 PM
Its cool.
I am not totaly anti condition report I just feel that with some climbs too much cheerleading adds to the cluster...

I am amazed at how many folks are out there cranking hard. Remission was climbed at least twice yesterday and it looked baked and sketchy. These thin abused condition reports must just get these guys fired up and ready to crank :)

verksand
03-18-2014, 12:42 AM
Oy !
Planning to do something at frankenstein cliff thursday or friday...any fresh news on dracula and suroundings ?

Thanks

danf
03-18-2014, 01:35 AM
On Sunday, Dracula left was almost a ladder of hooks -- right was sustained and steep and really good!

Dropline is touching down but looks spooky to me

verksand
03-24-2014, 01:49 PM
On Sunday, Dracula left was almost a ladder of hooks -- right was sustained and steep and really good!

Dropline is touching down but looks spooky to me

We had a great day indeed...

tradman
03-29-2014, 10:10 PM
Everything with significant sun is toast. bunch of stuff still good to great. Smear, pegasus pillars and rock finish, standard and both sides of dracula still good to great. Rifgt side of dracula seemed steeper than what i have experienced in the past. left side is stepped out but very interesting moves.